Saturday, January 3, 2009

Phnom Penh's elusive vintage clothes market


Vintage shopping is all the rage among the hip and heavenly the world over, but Cambodia aficionados have to make a bit of an effort to score bargains

081231_13.jpg
Photo by: Tracey Shelton
Secondhand bargains at BKK market.
As containers full of used clothes arrive in Cambodia, they are filled with exactly that, used clothes. However, as enthusiasts and savvy retailers pile through the clothes, some items are discovered, put aside, washed and declared vintage. The term gives these particular garments an aura of elegance and sophistication, and very often a higher price tag, too.

According to Erin Gleeson, founder of vintage event Circa, the term vintage refers to second-hand garments made in the era their style reflects.An example would be a '70s-style dress actually being from the '70s, while a similar-looking dress from the '90s would simply be second hand, though also likely to sell thanks to its vintage look.

Gleeson hosts Circa every three to six months at changing venues around Phnom Penh.
"I started collecting vintage items some four years ago, first for myself and my friends," she said.

Soon, however, Gleeson started hosting vintage sale parties at her house, and eventually began Circa, an all-day event featuring secondhand and vintage clothing for women sold in a chilled-out atmosphere complete with music, drinks and nibbles.

"Vintage makes people feel at home. Women say particular items remind them of something, or someplace," she said.

Terms of trade

Secondhand clothes arrive in Cambodia in containers mainly from Korea. Massive 100-kilogram sacks of garments are then sold to retailers for around US$100-$150.


Vintage makes people feel at home. women say ... items remind them of something, or some place.


Some of the sacks are bought by Cambodians who sell their contents outside markets. Piles of these clothes, straight from the sacks, can be browsed through, most notably at the southern end of BKK market, as well as in a small alley off the Russian Market.

The activity is time-consuming and demanding, the incentive being that real vintage items, as well as decent secondhand attire, can be had for a mere 2,000 riel - assuming you find them.

This is how Gleeson unearths many of the gems sold at Circa, revealing that she once even stumbled upon a Chanel item.
To make the job somewhat easier, however, she has developed relationships with many of the vendors over the years, to the extent that they put items away for her to pick up.

Other sacks are bought by traders. They open the sacks, sort the clothing, repack and compress garments, and then sell them onwards. A large amount of the clothing thus gets shipped to neighbouring countries to be resold.
Some of the stuff even makes it all the way to Africa.

"Most Africans in Cambodia are involved in this business," said Mike Osemwegu from Nigeria, sales manager at CAO Ltd, based near Olympic Market. "We ship these bags to Africa, where 2,000 riel jeans sell for $2 to $3. Because we send them in such quantities, there's a profit to be made."

"Secondhand clothing is big business," acknowledged Gleeson, raising an eyebrow at how seemingly donated clothes are sold to vendors at points of entry into Cambodia. "I use the profits from Circa to fund various arts projects I am involved in," she said, adding that art projects are very underfunded in Cambodia.

Hidden gems

While finding those real vintage items can be a mission and a half, local markets, or more specifically the alleys outside the markets, are worth browsing through for some secondhand bargains. BKK market is where to go for jeans. Starting from around $2, denim trousers are available in all shapes and sizes. Brands include Levi's and Abercrombie & Fitch, but it may take some digging to find your size.

There are no changing rooms, so it's a good idea to wear a dress when you go, although the vendors do have skirts you can borrow.

Men will just have to cope with the indignity of standing in their boxer shorts in public. BKK has a large amount of men's shirts and a decent collection of vintage-looking shoes for around $5.

Central Market is also worth popping by. True to its reputation as a more expensive market, jeans here are in the $5-$10 range. There is, however, a notable collection of leather jackets as well as some fur coats that clearly have gotten lost in the wrong part of the world. Most jackets are in the $30-$35 range, and while some of them remind you mainly of what a chain-smoking Russian cab driver would wear, others are actually nicely cut and great if you're heading to colder climates for the festive season.

More secondhand clothes are sold outside Olympic, O'Russei and Russian markets.
Seemingly the only actual shop in town selling second-hand clothes, Thrift Japan, north of Wat Phnom, is a small piece of paradise for vintage lovers.

Items start from 2,000 riel and although there is no air conditioning, there are fans, changing rooms and the clothes are hung on racks as well as sorted by item. As in the markets, it takes a lot of browsing, but there are some seriously stylish outfits to be found there. An added bonus is that by buying 10 items you get a 50 percent discount on the sum total of your bill.

Finally, if you have time and patience, search through the piles outside markets, for those true 2,000 riel bargains. Or wait for Gleeson to do it for you, and look out for the next Circa. fromphompenhpost.com

Phnom Penh's elusive vintage clothes market

Written by Nora Lindstrom
Wednesday, 31 December 2008

Vintage shopping is all the rage among the hip and heavenly the world over, but Cambodia aficionados have to make a bit of an effort to score bargains

081231_13.jpg
Photo by: Tracey Shelton
Secondhand bargains at BKK market.

As containers full of used clothes arrive in Cambodia, they are filled with exactly that, used clothes. However, as enthusiasts and savvy retailers pile through the clothes, some items are discovered, put aside, washed and declared vintage. The term gives these particular garments an aura of elegance and sophistication, and very often a higher price tag, too.

According to Erin Gleeson, founder of vintage event Circa, the term vintage refers to second-hand garments made in the era their style reflects.An example would be a '70s-style dress actually being from the '70s, while a similar-looking dress from the '90s would simply be second hand, though also likely to sell thanks to its vintage look.

Gleeson hosts Circa every three to six months at changing venues around Phnom Penh.
"I started collecting vintage items some four years ago, first for myself and my friends," she said.

Soon, however, Gleeson started hosting vintage sale parties at her house, and eventually began Circa, an all-day event featuring secondhand and vintage clothing for women sold in a chilled-out atmosphere complete with music, drinks and nibbles.

"Vintage makes people feel at home. Women say particular items remind them of something, or someplace," she said.

Terms of trade
Secondhand clothes arrive in Cambodia in containers mainly from Korea. Massive 100-kilogram sacks of garments are then sold to retailers for around US$100-$150.

Vintage makes people feel at home. women say ... items remind them of something, or some place.


Some of the sacks are bought by Cambodians who sell their contents outside markets. Piles of these clothes, straight from the sacks, can be browsed through, most notably at the southern end of BKK market, as well as in a small alley off the Russian Market.

The activity is time-consuming and demanding, the incentive being that real vintage items, as well as decent secondhand attire, can be had for a mere 2,000 riel - assuming you find them.

This is how Gleeson unearths many of the gems sold at Circa, revealing that she once even stumbled upon a Chanel item.
To make the job somewhat easier, however, she has developed relationships with many of the vendors over the years, to the extent that they put items away for her to pick up.

Other sacks are bought by traders. They open the sacks, sort the clothing, repack and compress garments, and then sell them onwards. A large amount of the clothing thus gets shipped to neighbouring countries to be resold.
Some of the stuff even makes it all the way to Africa.

"Most Africans in Cambodia are involved in this business," said Mike Osemwegu from Nigeria, sales manager at CAO Ltd, based near Olympic Market. "We ship these bags to Africa, where 2,000 riel jeans sell for $2 to $3. Because we send them in such quantities, there's a profit to be made."

"Secondhand clothing is big business," acknowledged Gleeson, raising an eyebrow at how seemingly donated clothes are sold to vendors at points of entry into Cambodia. "I use the profits from Circa to fund various arts projects I am involved in," she said, adding that art projects are very underfunded in Cambodia.

Hidden gems
While finding those real vintage items can be a mission and a half, local markets, or more specifically the alleys outside the markets, are worth browsing through for some secondhand bargains. BKK market is where to go for jeans. Starting from around $2, denim trousers are available in all shapes and sizes. Brands include Levi's and Abercrombie & Fitch, but it may take some digging to find your size.

There are no changing rooms, so it's a good idea to wear a dress when you go, although the vendors do have skirts you can borrow.

Men will just have to cope with the indignity of standing in their boxer shorts in public. BKK has a large amount of men's shirts and a decent collection of vintage-looking shoes for around $5.

Central Market is also worth popping by. True to its reputation as a more expensive market, jeans here are in the $5-$10 range. There is, however, a notable collection of leather jackets as well as some fur coats that clearly have gotten lost in the wrong part of the world. Most jackets are in the $30-$35 range, and while some of them remind you mainly of what a chain-smoking Russian cab driver would wear, others are actually nicely cut and great if you're heading to colder climates for the festive season.

More secondhand clothes are sold outside Olympic, O'Russei and Russian markets.
Seemingly the only actual shop in town selling second-hand clothes, Thrift Japan, north of Wat Phnom, is a small piece of paradise for vintage lovers.

Items start from 2,000 riel and although there is no air conditioning, there are fans, changing rooms and the clothes are hung on racks as well as sorted by item. As in the markets, it takes a lot of browsing, but there are some seriously stylish outfits to be found there. An added bonus is that by buying 10 items you get a 50 percent discount on the sum total of your bill.

Finally, if you have time and patience, search through the piles outside markets, for those true 2,000 riel bargains. Or wait for Gleeson to do it for you, and look out for the next Circa.

Experts press for more agriculture support



January 3, 2009 by phalla (Edit)
Filed under Khmer News Today

Leave a Comment

Written by KAY KIMSONG
Friday, 02 January 2009

With foreign direct investment and the property market in the grips of market crisis, experts say the agriculture sector should be the government’s focus

090102_11.jpg
Photo by: Tracey Shelton
Rice farmers in rural Cambodia. Experts hope that a strong agricultural sector will insulate the country from the economic crisis.
DEVELOPMENT officials called on the government this week to devote more resources to the agricultural sector in an effort to mitigate the effects of the global economic crisis.

Kang Chandararot, president of the Cambodia Institute for Development Study, said that while the tourism and garment sectors continue to struggle for access to international markets during the slowdown, Cambodia’s agriculture sector holds the best hope of weathering the crisis.

“We face a difficult situation, but the government should use most of the [nearly] US$1 billion in donor aid to develop our rural areas as a top priority,” he said.

He said greater improvements in rural development would cut poverty and reduce dependence on loans from banks or microfinance institutions.

“While direct loans from banks and microfinance institutions provide necessary support, aid through the rural development and agriculture ministries should be used to modernise our agricultural methods,” Kang Chandararot said.
Such aid could be used to renovate Cambodia’s aging water systems, find new seedlings and fertilisers, and improve rural markets, he said.

Bank lending for infrastructure improvements poses risks for farmers, said Tep Khunnal, governor of Malai district in Battambang province, who has proposed a new community-based capital savings and lending initiative.

“I understand that loans and financing from outside are necessary, but capital reserves established in Malai district could be sufficient for providing financing to local farmers,” Tep Khunnal said.

“We are thinking of a community bank, where farmers can borrow money at low interest rates,” he said.

The governor said Malai farmers expect to earn about $5 million from this year’s harvest of corn, beans, cassava and rice, despite a dip in some commodity prices.

The price of corn per tonne is $144, down 58 percent from June and July this year, when it sold for $346 per tonne, he said.

“We met with a large group of farmers in Malai district to discuss what crops would be best to plant next year based on our predictions of how the prices might fluctuate,” he said.

He added that based on recent analysis by agricultural experts, crop prices would rise in late 2009 on a predicted increase in oil prices to between $60 and $80 per barrel.

Son Koun Thor, president and CEO of Cambodia’s Rural Development Bank, said the global financial crisis was not likely to affect farmers in remote areas who had little access to larger markets.

Myanmar terminates some publications for failure to register

YANGON, Jan. 3 (Xinhua) -- The Myanmar Information Ministry hasterminated some 11 journals and 20 magazines, the local weekly Voice journal reported Saturday, quoting the Central Press Scrutiny and Registration Board.
The 11 journals, revoked from publication for failure to apply for renewal of registration, included Thet Thant Yaung, Viva Sports, Aung Nameik, Film News, International Crimes, Maha, Bulletin, Trend, Aung Su Youth, Music World and Company Directory.

According to statistics, there are over 250 private magazines and 200 journals being sold in the domestic markets.

Among the journals granted over the past few years, sports journals dominated in number, followed by news journals which carry domestic and international news, news related to arts, children, health and crime.

The number of journals covering domestic news has grown over the past decade in Myanmar, thanks to market demand and the emergence of more such journals also contributes to the development of journalism, readers said.

The Information Ministry took over the duties of the press scrutiny and registration from the Ministry of Home Affairs in February 2005, granting the publication and distribution of journals and magazines as long as they conforms to the prescribed policy.

Other official statistics show that there were a total of over 5,000 printing houses and 759 publishers in Myanmar. More than 9,700 titles of books on various topics were also published.

278 killed in road accidents in Thailand during New Year holidays

BANGKOK, Jan. 3 (Xinhua) -- The death toll of road accidents throughout Thailand during the first four days of the seven New Year holidays rose to 278, the Disaster Prevention and Mitigation Department announced Saturday.
The Department's director-general Anucha Mokkhawes said 2,793 road accidents occurred from Tuesday to Friday, killing 278 people and injuring 2,996 others.

On Friday alone, 464 accidents occurred, killing 52 people and injuring 492 others.

Even a pro-CPP newspaper couldn't help but criticize Hun Sen's government inaction in deforestation cases


Forest Destruction in Preah Vihear Province Blamed on 'Rich, Powerful People'

31 Dec 08
By Veasna
Samleng Yuveakchon Khmer (Voice of Khmer Youth)
currently a pro-CPP newspaper
Translated from Khmer by Anonymous

Forest crimes have continued unabated as if the culprits are not afraid of the law of the state, not even a bit. For example, there is the case of forested land along the road from Chikreng district, Siemreab province, to the region near Preah Vihear Temple being cleared and grabbed with impunity.

The local Forest Administration and environment office officials expressed frustration at these activities taking place in a protected region known as Boeng Pear Wildlife Refuge.

An environment office official in Preah Vihear province explained how difficult it is to crack down on and prevent forest crimes. He said, "There are few protectors but far more numerous destroyers." About the nighttime log stealing maneuvers, he said, "They even steal the logs at night."

The protected Boeng Pear Wildlife Refuge is under threat of being totally devastated as the rich and powerful people, both locals and outsiders have cleared the forests and grabbed the land in a very lawless manner.

The forest destruction activities that have turned the area into a vast clearing started when a path was bulldozed through the forests for the construction of the road linking Ronakse commune in Chikreng district, Siemreab province, with the Preah Khan Temple of Kampong Svay in Sangkum Thmei district, Preah Vihear province. As this road was being built the state forests on both sides of the highway were also cleared and the land grabbed.

However, the local environment office and Forest Administration officials said that those who took possession of the land after destroying the forests are not the local people. Most of them are people coming from other districts and provinces.

A local official said, "They are not people around here. They come from Siemreab or from Stoung in Kampong Thum. They bought the forested land and hired the locals to clear the forests for them."

NGOs and the local people asserted that the protected concession forests of the Ministry of Tourism and the forests under the jurisdiction of the Boeng Pear Wildlife Refuge between Ronakse commune in Sangkum Thmei district, Preah Vihear province, and Khvav commune, Chikreng district, Siemreab province, are under a serious threat of being completely decimated by those who clear the area for grabbing by private parties.

An NGO employee working with the local forest and fishing communities in many regions of Preah Vihear province who talked on condition of anonymity said the protected concession forests of the Ministry of Tourism and the forests in the protected Boeng Pear Wildlife Refuge are badly devastated because of the clearing and grabbing activities following the opening of the construction site of the road from Khvav commune, Chikreng district, Siemreab province, to Preah Khan Temple of Kampong Svay in Sangkum Thmei district, Preah Vihear province.

Head of the Preah Vihear provincial environment office Khoy Khunchanroat said that the area was not under the jurisdiction of his provincial environment office but under the control of the protected Boeng Pear Wildlife Refuge. He also said that forest crimes are widespread because there are more perpetrators than law enforcers who are undermanned and thus cannot fight the crimes everywhere.

Khoy Khunchanroat said, "The protectors are few but the destroyers are numerous. We do our best to protect the trees, but sometimes they stealthily cut them at night."

According to some NGOs, in the region from Sangkum Thmei district to the Phnum Dek area adjacent to Siemreab province the logging of trees to grab land is causing a serious destruction of the environment, and currently many professional tree poachers who use ox and buffalo carts to transport the timber have reportedly come over from Prey Long village in Stoung district, Kampong Thum province equipped with large mechanical saws. As for the raids by the competent authorities, they are few and far between and sometimes the operations were only to collect bribes from the loggers and timber merchants.

The destruction of the forests in the region between Siemreab and Preah Vihear provinces is now at its most alarming stage. No institution concerned has come out to accept clear responsibility because everybody seeks to avoid being blamed; so none of them wants to acknowledge responsibility. However, most observers hold that the specialized institutions should be responsible since they have also received some benefit from the merchants who have logged the trees and destroyed the forests.

If one wants to arrest the tree poachers in the above region, it is certainly not difficult because the logs are transported out of the forests on carts pulled by oxen or water buffaloes and on big trucks. However, the specialized authorities, especially the Forest Administration, do not act as the protectors of the forests who would lay in wait to arrest the bad guys; instead, they act as the protectors of the tree poachers. For this reason, it is not possible to suppress the present lawless illegal logging that is reported all over the country.

The Royal Government has sometimes issued warnings against the criminals who were destroying the forests, using strong words, such as cautioning them that they could be confronted and sent to the court for prosecution. Following such warnings the forest clearing activities appeared to space out a little, at least in regions where these activities were directly mentioned and names of those involved were pointed out.

Of course, there were some activities aimed at suppressing the forest crimes and conducted by the government authorities, such as the arrests of those involved in the logging of 400 trucks of luxury wood at the forested highlands of Virakchey National Park northeast of Rotanakiri province, which is located in the northeastern most part of the country.

This crime was discovered in 2005 through the cooperation between the government's Ministry of Environment and the World Bank, the biggest international financier of the effort to promote Cambodia's development work and conserve its forest resources.

Huge piles of logs of precious wood trees scattering in the forest clearings were discovered by that mission when it was flying over the region to investigate the reported forest crimes in Cambodia.

Big regional officials, including the provincial governor, police chief, and military commander, were found involved in the felonious logging activities in this region. They were then arrested and prosecuted, except the then provincial governor Kham Khoeun, who has remained at large. Later, it was rumored that Kham Khoeun had taken refuge in a neighboring country.

Again and again in the past, officials of the NGOs, including Global Witness, incriminated the government with what they claimed to be evidence of its involvement in forest crimes. But the government steadily denied these charges, saying that this news was untrue and was fabricated by critics bent on vilifying the government.

Supreme Court ruling on Chea Vichea killers gets mixed reaction


Vuon Phon, Sok Sam Oeun’s father who has campaigned for his son’s release, talks to reporters after Wednesday’s court ruling. (Photo by: HENG CHIVOAN)

Friday, 02 January 2009

Written by Chrann Chamroeun and Christopher Shay
The Phnom Penh Post


After nearly five years in prison, Born Samnang and Sok Sam Oeun – convicted of killing union leader Chea Vichea – have been released pending an Appeal Court retrial

BORN Samnang and Sok Sam Oeun, the convicted murderers of outspoken union leader Chea Vichea, woke up in prison for the 1,798th time on Wednesday but went to bed free men.

The Cambodian Supreme Court on Wednesday sent their case back down to the Appeal Court and released them from prison, citing contradictory evidence in the previous trials.

For the first time in nearly five years, the two men were going home.

But many rights organisations - though pleased with Wednesday's decision - are not ready to believe in the independence of the Cambodian judiciary.

"Looking back later, we would hope that this is when the Cambodian judiciary turned the corner.... But we can't say this solves the problem. One case doesn't make or break a long pattern of deeply entrenched impunity," said Sara Colm of Human Rights Watch.

The intense local and international attention that this case received may have led to a rare set of circumstances where the court could decide on the facts, resulting in a decision that may not be indicative of the judiciary as a whole, Colm said.

"I AM VERY HAPPY AND EXCITED FOR THE COURT’S DECISION TO RELEASE ME ON BAIL."

"The fact that the Supreme Court sent the case back is definitely a very welcome development.... But we don't know what will happen at the Appeal Court."

The US embassy said in a release that it hoped "the appeal court will take up the case expeditiously and finally resolve this matter in a way consistent with Cambodian law and international standards of due process".

Suon Sareth, executive secretary at the Cambodian Human Rights Action Committee, shared Colm's wait-and-see approach.

"When the Cambodian court has a case like this, they can't abruptly drop it. They delay, delay, delay and hope it will be forgotten. When they say they will conduct a new investigation, they will find nothing, and it will take years," he said.

"But we will follow. We will monitor," he promised. "[This] is only a first step in an independent judiciary."

Happy to be free

As Born Samnang was escorted into a car back to prison while his release papers were being processed, he told reporters: "I am very happy and excited for the court's decision to release me."

Sok Sam Oeun's father, Vuon Phon, told the Post, "I'm so happy my son will be released, and I could see him with a big smile".

In addition to requesting a new investigation into Chea Vichea's killing, Peung Yok Hiep, a lawyer representing Chea Mony, the deceased's brother, requested that the pair receive US$50,000 in civil compensation for their time in jail.

Prosecutor Chhoun Chantha remained adamant about the pair's guilt.

"It's normal for the accused to find ways to fool the court in order for them to be released from punishment," he told reporters after the hearing.

But around the courtroom, he was in the minority.

When Judge Dith Monty, the court president, announced his ruling after the four-hour hearing, the audience outside the courtroom burst into applause, ecstatic that the two men would have another chance at freedom.

"I am delighted about the Supreme Court's decision because it will provide a way for further investigations to seek justice for Chea Vichea," said Rong Chhun, a friend of the slain man, who was gunned down at a newspaper stand in 2004.

Though the convictions were widely and repeatedly condemned by local and international rights organisations, many expressed surprise at the court's announcement, temporarily releasing the men and opening the possibility that they could be freed permanently.

'Strange and surprised'

The executive director of the Cambodian Defenders Project (CDP), Sok Sam Oeun - no relation to the defendant - was stunned.

"I feel strange and surprised because I never trusted the independence of the Supreme Court. I hope this means the judiciary in Cambodia is improving," he said.

Chea Mony, who has condemned the two men's conviction, did not even attend the trial, saying he had lost faith in the Cambodian judicial system.

"However, I now have a newfound confidence in the court system, and I think the investigation at the Appeal Court level will not take as much time as the previous investigation," he said.

The provisional release of Born Samnang and Sok Sam Oeun is, said Sok Sam Oeun of the Cambodian Defenders Project, "the first case in our judicial history of a pretrial release following a Supreme Court case".